CLIMBING TRAINING Reading time : 10 min Updated October 28, 2026
Contents
Safety in indoor climbing rests on one action, the partner check before every route, which the FFME and the DAV write in almost the same terms. The climber and the belayer check the tie-in knot, the harness, the rope in the belay device, the locked carabiner, and the climb starts only on the green light. This guide quotes the FFME instructions as written. Where the texts we read stop, for example on the self-belay device, it stops too.
The partner check, word for word
FFME white passport, safety module (page modified 14 August 2026). Each line is a sentence from the federation, translated from the French.
FFME · white passport · safety
Six actions, in this order, before and during every route
The FFME's full sentences are in the guide's table. Here, the key word of each action.
Source: FFME, Passeports escalade, white passport, safety module (page of 14/08/2026). The quotations are translated from the French text.
Action
FFME text
Tying in
“Pass my rope through the tie-in points, weave the figure-eight knot tightening the loops and secure it with a stopper knot.”
Checking in pairs
“Check my equipment and my tie-in and have them checked by my belayer.” / “Wait for the instructor's green light to climb.”
Setting up the device
“Correctly install the rope in the belay device, place it on the belay loop and lock the safety carabiner.” / “Check my belay system and have it checked by the climber and the instructor.”
The hand on the brake
“Handle the rope without hesitation and in such a way as to always keep one hand behind the brake.”
Belaying on top rope
“Belay the climber's ascent on top rope, keeping the rope taut, but without hauling them up.”
Lowering
belayer: “Lower my partner at a moderate speed.” Climber: “Sit back in the harness, relaxed, after checking that the belayer has taken me on.”
The DAV says the same thing in other terms (brochure “Sicher Klettern”, 2019 copy): “Der Partnercheck ist eine Standard-Sicherheitsmaßnahme. Er muss bewusst Punkt für Punkt abgearbeitet werden”, that is, a standard safety measure, to be done deliberately point by point; the hand stays “am Bremsseil” (Bremshand am Bremsseil, the brake hand on the brake rope); and lowering (Ablassen) begins only once the climber is sitting with their full weight in the rope, “langsam” (slowly), and ends “in einer sanften Landung”, a soft landing.
Switzerland relies on the standard “Sichern gemäss aktuellen Indoor-Standards VSBK”; the Swiss word-for-word list was not read.
A belaying drill that skips one of these actions teaches the mistake. Repeat the instruction in every top-rope or lead drill, naming the federation.
Belaying in competition
Manual brakes only for World Climbing lead events: only manual brakes are allowed.
The belayer checks that the rope has no knot and no twist, that the harness is closed, and the tie-in with a figure-eight knot and a stopper knot; every fall is stopped dynamically and safely (Event Regulations, Annex A, art. 4.11 and 4.13).
In speed, the climber's safety is a self-belay device: the belayer confirms the harness and connects the device (Annex B, art. 4.8).
The club is not the competition: the DAV asks its Leistungssport coaches to master two semi-automatic brakes (an Autotuber and a Hebelgerät), and the FFME orange passport has the introduction to speed belayed with an assisted-braking device. Manual brake in competition, assisted brake common at the club: both are written, and no text we read sets them against each other.
The self-belay device: what the texts do not say
No protocol for using a self-belay device at a club was read in a federation text. The only use described is that of the competition speed wall (see above). This guide therefore gives no self-belay instruction: follow the manufacturer's instructions and your gym's rule.
The club's kit
Item
What the texts we read say
Climbing shoes
chosen for edging and grip; for young climbers, do not aggressively undersize a growing foot (common warning, no federation source read)
Harness
standard harness; full-body harness for young children, whose centre of mass is low (common warning, no federation source read)
Belay device
manual only in competition; assisted common at the club (see above)
Safety carabiner
locking, on the belay loop (FFME)
Rope
single dynamic rope; its length must exceed twice the height of the route (common instruction)
Bouldering pads
landing zone clear, no running on the mats (FFME, see the bouldering guide)
Chalk
commercial chalk, dry or liquid, in competition (Competition Rules)
Helmet
optional indoors (Competition Rules); compulsory on a natural site from the FFME green passport
Banned in competition
gloves, knee pads, sticky agents
The reference standard for artificial climbing structures is the EN 12572 series (2017): part 1 for structures with protection points, part 2 for bouldering walls, part 3 for holds. Only the standard's catalogue was read, its text being paid. The FFME recommends applying the standards and co-signed with FIFAS a guide to the inspection and maintenance of SAE (artificial climbing structures). An annual inspection is a common practice, not a legal obligation verified here.
The drills of this guide
The three drills of the library that work on belaying. Their coaching points quote the FFME and the DAV.
the climberthe belayer / spotterrope line / line of sight
Partner check (before every climb)
The mandatory mutual check of harness, tie-in knot and belay device before every roped climb - the standard safety measure worked through point by point.
Drill details
Set out
Climber tied in, belayer ready; both stand face to face before leaving the ground.
What it trains
The mandatory mutual check of harness, tie-in knot and belay device before every roped climb - the standard safety measure worked through point by point.
Published frame
1 harness buckles doubled back · 2 figure-8 + safety knot · 3 rope in device, locking carabiner closed · 4 wait for the go-ahead.
How it runs
The mandatory mutual check of harness, tie-in knot and belay device before every roped climb - the standard safety measure worked through point by point. Climber tied in, belayer ready; both stand face to face before leaving the ground. Work through, point by point: harness buckles doubled back; figure-8 tie-in complete with a safety knot; rope correctly in the device on the belay loop with the locking carabiner closed; wait for the go-ahead before climbing.
Coaching points
FFME (blanc), verbatim: 'Vérifier mon équipement et mon encordement et les faire vérifier par mon assureur' / 'Attendre le feu vert du moniteur pour grimper'. FFME device check, verbatim: 'Installer correctement la corde dans le frein d'assurage, placer ce dernier sur le pontet et verrouiller le mousqueton de sécurité'. DAV, verbatim: « Der Partnercheck ... muss bewusst Punkt für Punkt abgearbeitet werden » (the partner check must be worked through deliberately, point by point). Both climber and belayer confirm each item out loud. No climb starts until the check is complete.
Make it harder
Belayer spots a deliberately introduced error (unlocked carabiner, un-doubled buckle).
Make it easier
Coach leads the check aloud, climbers repeat each item.
the climberthe belayer / spotterbody / movement pathrope line / line of sight
Top-rope belaying
Belay a top-rope climber keeping the rope taut but without hauling, always keeping one hand behind the brake - the core FFME 'blanc' belay competence.
Drill details
Set out
Top-rope station set; climber tied in and checked (see clim-partner-check); assisted-braking or manual device on the belay loop.
What it trains
Belay a top-rope climber keeping the rope taut but without hauling, always keeping one hand behind the brake - the core FFME 'blanc' belay competence.
Published frame
FFME (blanc), verbatim: 'Manipuler la corde .
How it runs
Belay a top-rope climber keeping the rope taut but without hauling, always keeping one hand behind the brake - the core FFME 'blanc' belay competence. Top-rope station set; climber tied in and checked ('Partner check' drill); assisted-braking or manual device on the belay loop. Take in the rope smoothly as the climber rises, keeping it taut but not pulling them up; the brake hand never leaves the brake side; use the safe hand-over technique.
Coaching points
FFME (blanc), verbatim: 'Manipuler la corde ... de manière à toujours conserver une main derrière le frein'. FFME (blanc), verbatim: 'Assurer la montée du grimpeur en moulinette en conservant la corde tendue, mais sans le treuiller'. DAV principle: 'Bremshand am Bremsseil'. Keep the rope taut, watch the climber, not the device. Never let go of the brake to swap hands.
Make it harder
Belay a heavier climber; add a short lower-off ('Controlled lowering' drill).
Make it easier
Coach backs up the brake hand; climber stays low.
the climberthe belayer / spotterbody / movement pathrope line / line of sight
Controlled lowering
Lower a climber at a moderate speed to a soft landing, beginning only once they sit fully into the harness - the FFME/DAV lowering protocol.
Drill details
Set out
Top-rope climber at height, ready to be lowered; belayer in a braced stance, brake hand set.
What it trains
Lower a climber at a moderate speed to a soft landing, beginning only once they sit fully into the harness - the FFME/DAV lowering protocol.
Published frame
FFME climber, verbatim: 'M'asseoir dans le baudrier, relache, apres avoir verifie que l'assureur m'a pris en charge'.
How it runs
Lower a climber at a moderate speed to a soft landing, beginning only once they sit fully into the harness - the FFME/DAV lowering protocol. Top-rope climber at height, ready to be lowered; belayer in a braced stance, brake hand set. The climber sits back into the harness and confirms the belayer has them; only then does lowering begin - slowly, at a moderate, even speed, ending in a soft landing.
Coaching points
FFME climber, verbatim: 'M'asseoir dans le baudrier, relâché, après avoir vérifié que l'assureur m'a pris en charge'. FFME belayer, verbatim: 'Descendre mon partenaire à vitesse modérée'. DAV, verbatim: lowering 'langsam ... sanfte Landung' (slowly, a soft landing), only 'nachdem der Kletterer mit seinem vollen Gewicht im Seil sitzt' (once the climber sits with full weight in the rope). Brake hand stays on; control the speed. Watch the climber all the way down.
Make it harder
Lower past an overhang or a swing; manage a heavier climber.
Make it easier
Short lower from low height; coach backs up the brake.
Frequently asked questions
Manual brake or assisted brake?
Both are written, for two contexts. World Climbing allows only manual brakes in competition lead; at the club, the DAV asks coaches to master two types of semi-automatic brakes, and the FFME has the introduction to speed belayed with an assisted-braking device. Whichever brake is used, the hand stays behind the brake.
Is a helmet compulsory indoors?
Not in the texts we read: the World Climbing rules say it is optional. The FFME requires it on a natural site from the green passport (“always wear a helmet on a natural site”). Your gym's rule may be stricter.
Can a self-belay device be used at a club?
The federation texts we read give no protocol for use at a club. This guide does not invent one: apply the manufacturer's instructions and your gym's rules.
Sources
FFME: Passeports escalade, white passport, safety module (page modified 14 August 2026) and green passport. DAV: brochure “Sicher Klettern” (2019 copy); Kletterscheine Indoor; Trainer C Sportklettern (semi-automatic brake). J+S Sportklettern (BASPO and SAC). World Climbing: Competition Rules, version 3, January 2026 (personal equipment, art. 3.3 and 3.4); Event Regulations, version 3, Annex A (art. 4.11, 4.13) and Annex B (art. 4.8). AFNOR / CEN: NF EN 12572-1, -2, -3 (March 2017), catalogue only. Warnings with no federation source, flagged as such: climbing shoes and harness for young climbers, rope length. Not read: the Swiss word-for-word protocol, any self-belay protocol at a club, the legal inspection procedure.
After “Belaying, kit and the partner check”, plan the session
The generator is right on the session: plan by the players’ age band and the duration, pick a theme. Paak builds a minuted five-block outline (warm-up, two work blocks, a game and a cool-down) from this same library of 30 drills.
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