Côté Coach · Climbing

Coaching climbing, from first steps to adults

Choose your category, find a drill. The guides detail the sources, the scoring and the safety rules.

For club life (members, dues, attendance, equipment), see Paak, management software for climbing clubs.

Sources and overview

A free knowledge base built on the texts of the federations: the World Climbing rules (formerly IFSC, January 2026), the FFME passports, the DAV Kletterscheine, J+S Sportklettern and Swiss Climbing / SAC, USA Climbing, quoted as such. Climbing is scored in three different ways (bouldering, lead, speed) and graded on scales that must never be mixed. Safety here rests on a competence, belaying, which a passport certifies, and not on a contact age. The one medical ban that the texts we read repeat for young climbers concerns the fingers: no campusing before 18. No injury-prevention programme has been proven in climbers (literature review of 28 October 2026): what the research supports is a rule, not a programme.

Geometric motif of the banner: a climbing wall in profile, with holds and a rope line, in gold line on navy blue. The background shows a climbing wall in profile: the wall, six holds, a dashed rope line and the floor with a pad. Decorative and unmeasured: the only numbers in the banner are written beside it.
Côté Coach · Climbing

What federations really publish about youth climbing

World Climbing, FFME, DAV, Swiss Climbing and USA Climbing side by side. Disciplines, grades, belaying, young climbers' fingers: sourced, dated, comparable.

30 published drills
8 guides
5 federations read side by side

Choose a category

Priorities change from one band to the next. What does not change: belaying is checked by two before every route, and the fingers of under-18s are not loaded.

Do

  • The white passport as the framework for belaying: rope in the belay device, device on the belay loop, safety carabiner locked, one hand behind the brake, lowering at a moderate speed (FFME). The DAV Kletterschein Toprope covers the same actions; some sections ask for it from about 10, others at 14.
  • Feet and balance before strength: pushing with the legs, arms straight (FFME, white passport), then balance movements and side-on climbing (orange passport).
  • Know the maximum height of youth boulders: the FFME caps it at 3.5 m in U13, 4 m in U15 and 4.5 m from U17 (categories and formats of official competitions, 10 October 2025).

Avoid

  • Campusing and loaded hangs: advised against before 18. The growth-plate fracture of the finger mostly affects 13 to 15 year olds; the published cases range from 10 to 18, mean age 14.
  • Putting age before the passport: the DAV sets an age per section for its Kletterschein (about 10 for Toprope and 12 for Vorstieg in Düsseldorf), the FFME publishes none.
  • Teaching a lead fall before the yellow passport: the FFME teaches first stopping a small fall (yellow), then the dynamic fall (orange).

The drills 30 drills

Filter by theme. The belaying, spotting and falling drills quote the FFME and DAV instructions in their coaching points; the only speed drill is the introduction of the orange passport, because no federation publishes a drill for the standard route.

Silent feetClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: 8 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn.12345FACE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathhand holdfoothold

Silent feet

Place each foot precisely and quietly on the hold, with no scraping or re-adjusting, to build footwork accuracy and weight over the feet.

u9u13u17sen low 10 min
Drill details
Set out
An easy traverse or top-rope route on jugs and large footholds; coach or partner listens for foot noise.
What it trains
Place each foot precisely and quietly on the hold, with no scraping or re-adjusting, to build footwork accuracy and weight over the feet.
Published frame
Eyes to the foot before it lands.
How it runs
Place each foot precisely and quietly on the hold, with no scraping or re-adjusting, to build footwork accuracy and weight over the feet. An easy traverse or top-rope route on jugs and large footholds; coach or partner listens for foot noise. Climb slowly; look at the foot, place it once, weight it. Any audible scrape or slip = restart that move. Emphasise pushing up with the legs, arms straight.
Coaching points
Eyes to the foot before it lands. One placement, then commit weight. Push with the legs; keep arms straight to save the forearms. Quiet feet = precise feet.
Make it harder
Add a small overhang or smaller footholds; blindfold the last placement for advanced feel.
Make it easier
Lower-angle slab, big footholds, one move at a time with the coach naming each foot.
Push with the legsClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: 4 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn.21FACE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathhand holdfoothold

Push with the legs

Climb an easy route driving upward from the feet with straight arms, learning that the legs move the body and the arms only balance.

u9u13u17sen low 10 min
Drill details
Set out
Easy vertical top-rope or low traverse with good feet; a marker at hip height to reach by leg-push.
What it trains
Climb an easy route driving upward from the feet with straight arms, learning that the legs move the body and the arms only balance.
Published frame
Straight arms save energy; bent arms tire the forearms.
How it runs
Climb an easy route driving upward from the feet with straight arms, learning that the legs move the body and the arms only balance. Easy vertical top-rope or low traverse with good feet; a marker at hip height to reach by leg-push. Set the foot high, then stand up on it with straight arms until the hips rise; only then reach the next hand hold. Repeat move by move.
Coaching points
Straight arms save energy; bent arms tire the forearms. Stand up on the high foot before reaching. Let the legs do the work. Hips rise first, hands follow.
Make it harder
Steeper wall; reach further between hands so the legs must generate more.
Make it easier
Slab with big footholds; coach spots the foot placement.
Weight transfer & balanceClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: 4 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn.12FACE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathhand holdfoothold

Weight transfer & balance

Move the centre of gravity precisely over the supporting foot before each hand move, building the balance FFME 'orange' calls balance movements.

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
Vertical to slightly overhanging top-rope; footholds forcing a clear shift left-right.
What it trains
Move the centre of gravity precisely over the supporting foot before each hand move, building the balance FFME 'orange' calls balance movements.
Published frame
Hips over the foot, not between the feet.
How it runs
Move the centre of gravity precisely over the supporting foot before each hand move, building the balance FFME 'orange' calls balance movements. Vertical to slightly overhanging top-rope; footholds forcing a clear shift left-right. Before each reach, shift the hips fully over the loaded foot until the other foot could lift. Pause, feel the balance, then move a hand.
Coaching points
Hips over the foot, not between the feet. Test the balance: could the free foot lift?. Move quietly and slowly. Balance first, power second.
Make it harder
Remove a handhold so balance alone holds the position; add a small dyno-free rock-over.
Make it easier
Add a second handhold for security; slow the tempo.
Side-on / hip to the wallClimbing schematic, face view, overhanging wall: 4 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn.12FACE · OVERHANG
the climberbody / movement pathhand holdfoothold

Side-on / hip to the wall

Turn the hip into the wall to bring the centre of mass close and extend reach, the side-on climbing FFME 'orange' introduces.

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
Vertical or overhanging boulder/route with side-pulls that reward turning in.
What it trains
Turn the hip into the wall to bring the centre of mass close and extend reach, the side-on climbing FFME 'orange' introduces.
Published frame
Hip to the wall shortens the distance to the next hold.
How it runs
Turn the hip into the wall to bring the centre of mass close and extend reach, the side-on climbing FFME 'orange' introduces. Vertical or overhanging boulder/route with side-pulls that reward turning in. On a side-pull, rotate the same-side hip to the wall so the shoulder drops toward the hold; reach far with the opposite hand, then square back to move the feet.
Coaching points
Hip to the wall shortens the distance to the next hold. Drop the shoulder toward the side-pull. Square up again to move the feet. Feel the reach get longer when you turn in.
Make it harder
Chain two side-pulls left then right; add a drop-knee.
Make it easier
Practise the hip turn on the ground, then on a single move.
FlaggingClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: 3 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn.12FACE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathhand holdfoothold

Flagging

Use a trailing leg with no foothold as a counterweight to stop the body swinging (the 'barn door') and free a hand to move.

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
Boulder or route where a hold layout would swing the hips out (offset holds).
What it trains
Use a trailing leg with no foothold as a counterweight to stop the body swinging (the 'barn door') and free a hand to move.
Published frame
The free leg stops the barn-door swing.
How it runs
Use a trailing leg with no foothold as a counterweight to stop the body swinging (the 'barn door') and free a hand to move. Boulder or route where a hold layout would swing the hips out (offset holds). Before reaching, swing the free leg across or behind to counterbalance; press it lightly against the wall or air-flag it; then move the hand without the hips rotating.
Coaching points
The free leg stops the barn-door swing. Flag on the side away from the reaching hand. Small pressure, big balance effect. Move the hand only once the body is still.
Make it harder
Rear flag and inside flag variants; on steeper ground.
Make it easier
Use a real foothold for the trailing foot first, then remove it.
Drop-knee / backstepClimbing schematic, face view, overhanging wall: 4 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn.12FACE · OVERHANG
the climberbody / movement pathhand holdfoothold

Drop-knee / backstep

Rotate the knee down and in on an outside edge to lock a side-pull, bring the hip to the wall and extend reach on steep ground.

u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
Overhanging boulder/route with opposing footholds and a side-pull.
What it trains
Rotate the knee down and in on an outside edge to lock a side-pull, bring the hip to the wall and extend reach on steep ground.
Published frame
Outside edge, knee rotates down and in.
How it runs
Rotate the knee down and in on an outside edge to lock a side-pull, bring the hip to the wall and extend reach on steep ground. Overhanging boulder/route with opposing footholds and a side-pull. Set one foot on an outside edge, rotate the knee down/in so the hip pins to the wall and the opposite side extends; lock and reach far with the high hand.
Coaching points
Outside edge, knee rotates down and in. The drop-knee locks you in - less arm pull needed. Hip pins to the wall. Great on steep terrain to rest and reach.
Make it harder
Chain drop-knees on a roof; use to reach a clip on lead.
Make it easier
Practise the knee rotation low with hands on jugs.
Rock-over / mantleClimbing schematic, face view, slab wall: 2 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn.1FACE · SLAB
the climberbody / movement pathhand holdfoothold

Rock-over / mantle

Stand up onto a high foot (rock-over) or press out onto a ledge (mantle) using balance and leg drive rather than pulling.

u9u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
A high foothold or a mantle shelf on a slab or boulder top-out.
What it trains
Stand up onto a high foot (rock-over) or press out onto a ledge (mantle) using balance and leg drive rather than pulling.
Published frame
Hips over the high foot before standing.
How it runs
Stand up onto a high foot (rock-over) or press out onto a ledge (mantle) using balance and leg drive rather than pulling. A high foothold or a mantle shelf on a slab or boulder top-out. Place the foot high, shift the hips over it, then stand up with leg drive; for a mantle, press the palm down and bring the foot up as the body rises.
Coaching points
Hips over the high foot before standing. Push, don't pull, to rise. For a mantle, press the palm down flat. Slow and balanced beats forced and fast.
Make it harder
Mantle a boulder top-out; rock-over to a distant hold.
Make it easier
Lower shelf; a handhold above to assist the stand-up.
Dyno & coordinationClimbing schematic, face view, overhanging wall: 4 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn, the crash pad.12FACE · OVERHANG
the climberbody / movement pathhand holdfootholdlanding / fall zone (pad)

Dyno & coordination

Generate an explosive, coordinated move where hands (and sometimes feet) leave the wall to reach a hold beyond static range, as FFME 'orange' bouldering introduces dynamic movement.

u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
A low boulder with thick pads and a clear landing; a reachable dyno between good holds.
What it trains
Generate an explosive, coordinated move where hands (and sometimes feet) leave the wall to reach a hold beyond static range, as FFME 'orange' bouldering introduces dynamic movement.
Published frame
U17: feet stay on the holds (no feet-off dyno).
How it runs
Generate an explosive, coordinated move where hands (and sometimes feet) leave the wall to reach a hold beyond static range, as FFME 'orange' bouldering introduces dynamic movement. A low boulder with thick pads and a clear landing; a reachable dyno between good holds. Load the legs, drop slightly, then drive up and latch the target hold, absorbing the swing; controlled contact (a slap is not control) is the goal.
Coaching points
Power comes from the legs, not the arms. Eyes fix on the target hold. Latch and absorb - control the swing. Clear the landing and spot before big dynos.
Make it harder
Longer dyno; double-dyno (feet off) for adults only with a clear pad.
Make it easier
Short pop between jugs, feet staying on; static reach first.
Ground readingClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: 4 holds and footholds, the climber, the rope or sight line.1234FACE · VERTICAL
the climberrope line / line of sighthand hold

Ground reading

Read a route or boulder from the ground - identify holds, sequence, rests and clipping stances - then climb it as read, the skill FFME 'orange' calls reading a section of the route.

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
An unseen top-rope route or boulder at or just below the climber's level.
What it trains
Read a route or boulder from the ground - identify holds, sequence, rests and clipping stances - then climb it as read, the skill FFME 'orange' calls reading a section of the route.
Published frame
Name every hold and which hand/foot takes it.
How it runs
Read a route or boulder from the ground - identify holds, sequence, rests and clipping stances - then climb it as read, the skill FFME 'orange' calls reading a section of the route. An unseen top-rope route or boulder at or just below the climber's level. From the ground, point out each hold and the hand/foot sequence aloud, mark where to rest and (on lead) where to clip; then climb and compare to the plan.
Coaching points
Name every hold and which hand/foot takes it. Find the rests before you leave the ground. On lead, plan the clipping stances. Compare the climb to the plan afterwards.
Make it harder
Read a harder route; read once then climb with no re-look.
Make it easier
Read only the first few moves; coach reads alongside.
Decorative strip: a fine outline of a climbing wall in profile (the wall, three holds, a dashed rope line, the floor and a pad); this drill has no diagram.

Six-minute observation

Rehearse the competition lead observation period: read an on-sight route within a fixed time and build a full sequence, mirroring the World Climbing 6-minute collective observation.

u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
How it runs
Rehearse the competition lead observation period: read an on-sight route within a fixed time and build a full sequence, mirroring the World Climbing 6-minute collective observation. An unseen lead route; a timer set to 6 minutes; climbers observe as a group from the ground. Within the 6 minutes, mentally map every move, mark rests and clips, and choose a pace; then climb the route on-sight, one scoring attempt.
Coaching points
Use the whole time; don't rush the read. Commit the crux sequence to memory. Plan clips from stable stances. One attempt - pace it to the anchor.
Make it harder
Shorten to 40 seconds (the individual observation); harder route.
Make it easier
Extend the time; allow a partner to discuss the beta.
Decorative strip: a fine outline of a climbing wall in profile (the wall, three holds, a dashed rope line, the floor and a pad); this drill has no diagram.

Read then commit

A game: read the route/boulder once, then climb with no hesitation and no re-gripping, training decisiveness under the on-sight format.

u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
How it runs
A game: read the route/boulder once, then climb with no hesitation and no re-gripping, training decisiveness under the on-sight format. Two climbers compete on the same unseen problem; one read, then climb; a point for reaching higher with fewer hesitations. After a single read, climb continuously; each pause to re-read or re-grip loses a point. The higher, smoother climber wins the round.
Coaching points
Trust the read and move. Hesitation on steep ground burns strength. Commit to the next hold - control it, don't slap. Smoothness beats speed.
Make it harder
Onsight a route at limit; add a time cap.
Make it easier
Allow two reads; lower difficulty.
Partner check (before every climb)Climbing schematic, side view, vertical wall: the climber and the belayer, the rope or sight line.1234PROFILE · VERTICAL
the climberthe belayer / spotterrope line / line of sight

Partner check (before every climb)

The mandatory mutual check of harness, tie-in knot and belay device before every roped climb - the standard safety measure worked through point by point.

u13u17sen low 10 min
Drill details
Set out
Climber tied in, belayer ready; both stand face to face before leaving the ground.
What it trains
The mandatory mutual check of harness, tie-in knot and belay device before every roped climb - the standard safety measure worked through point by point.
Published frame
1 harness buckles doubled back · 2 figure-8 + safety knot · 3 rope in device, locking carabiner closed · 4 wait for the go-ahead.
How it runs
The mandatory mutual check of harness, tie-in knot and belay device before every roped climb - the standard safety measure worked through point by point. Climber tied in, belayer ready; both stand face to face before leaving the ground. Work through, point by point: harness buckles doubled back; figure-8 tie-in complete with a safety knot; rope correctly in the device on the belay loop with the locking carabiner closed; wait for the go-ahead before climbing.
Coaching points
FFME (blanc), verbatim: 'Vérifier mon équipement et mon encordement et les faire vérifier par mon assureur' / 'Attendre le feu vert du moniteur pour grimper'. FFME device check, verbatim: 'Installer correctement la corde dans le frein d'assurage, placer ce dernier sur le pontet et verrouiller le mousqueton de sécurité'. DAV, verbatim: « Der Partnercheck ... muss bewusst Punkt für Punkt abgearbeitet werden » (the partner check must be worked through deliberately, point by point). Both climber and belayer confirm each item out loud. No climb starts until the check is complete.
Make it harder
Belayer spots a deliberately introduced error (unlocked carabiner, un-doubled buckle).
Make it easier
Coach leads the check aloud, climbers repeat each item.
Top-rope belayingClimbing schematic, side view, vertical wall: the climber and the belayer, the climber's path drawn, the rope or sight line.PROFILE · VERTICAL
the climberthe belayer / spotterbody / movement pathrope line / line of sight

Top-rope belaying

Belay a top-rope climber keeping the rope taut but without hauling, always keeping one hand behind the brake - the core FFME 'blanc' belay competence.

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
Top-rope station set; climber tied in and checked (see clim-partner-check); assisted-braking or manual device on the belay loop.
What it trains
Belay a top-rope climber keeping the rope taut but without hauling, always keeping one hand behind the brake - the core FFME 'blanc' belay competence.
Published frame
FFME (blanc), verbatim: 'Manipuler la corde .
How it runs
Belay a top-rope climber keeping the rope taut but without hauling, always keeping one hand behind the brake - the core FFME 'blanc' belay competence. Top-rope station set; climber tied in and checked ('Partner check' drill); assisted-braking or manual device on the belay loop. Take in the rope smoothly as the climber rises, keeping it taut but not pulling them up; the brake hand never leaves the brake side; use the safe hand-over technique.
Coaching points
FFME (blanc), verbatim: 'Manipuler la corde ... de manière à toujours conserver une main derrière le frein'. FFME (blanc), verbatim: 'Assurer la montée du grimpeur en moulinette en conservant la corde tendue, mais sans le treuiller'. DAV principle: 'Bremshand am Bremsseil'. Keep the rope taut, watch the climber, not the device. Never let go of the brake to swap hands.
Make it harder
Belay a heavier climber; add a short lower-off ('Controlled lowering' drill).
Make it easier
Coach backs up the brake hand; climber stays low.
Controlled loweringClimbing schematic, side view, vertical wall: the climber and the belayer, the climber's path drawn, the rope or sight line.PROFILE · VERTICAL
the climberthe belayer / spotterbody / movement pathrope line / line of sight

Controlled lowering

Lower a climber at a moderate speed to a soft landing, beginning only once they sit fully into the harness - the FFME/DAV lowering protocol.

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
Top-rope climber at height, ready to be lowered; belayer in a braced stance, brake hand set.
What it trains
Lower a climber at a moderate speed to a soft landing, beginning only once they sit fully into the harness - the FFME/DAV lowering protocol.
Published frame
FFME climber, verbatim: 'M'asseoir dans le baudrier, relache, apres avoir verifie que l'assureur m'a pris en charge'.
How it runs
Lower a climber at a moderate speed to a soft landing, beginning only once they sit fully into the harness - the FFME/DAV lowering protocol. Top-rope climber at height, ready to be lowered; belayer in a braced stance, brake hand set. The climber sits back into the harness and confirms the belayer has them; only then does lowering begin - slowly, at a moderate, even speed, ending in a soft landing.
Coaching points
FFME climber, verbatim: 'M'asseoir dans le baudrier, relâché, après avoir vérifié que l'assureur m'a pris en charge'. FFME belayer, verbatim: 'Descendre mon partenaire à vitesse modérée'. DAV, verbatim: lowering 'langsam ... sanfte Landung' (slowly, a soft landing), only 'nachdem der Kletterer mit seinem vollen Gewicht im Seil sitzt' (once the climber sits with full weight in the rope). Brake hand stays on; control the speed. Watch the climber all the way down.
Make it harder
Lower past an overhang or a swing; manage a heavier climber.
Make it easier
Short lower from low height; coach backs up the brake.
Spotting on the boulderClimbing schematic, side view, overhanging wall: the climber and the belayer, the climber's path drawn, the crash pad.PROFILE · OVERHANG
the climberthe belayer / spotterbody / movement pathlanding / fall zone (pad)

Spotting on the boulder

Protect a boulderer's fall by guiding the upper body and head toward the pads without catching them, requesting or giving a spot when needed - the FFME spotting competence.

u9u13u17sen low 10 min
Drill details
Set out
Low boulder over pads; a spotter behind and slightly to the side, arms up, thumbs in.
What it trains
Protect a boulderer's fall by guiding the upper body and head toward the pads without catching them, requesting or giving a spot when needed - the FFME spotting competence.
Published frame
FFME (jaune->orange), verbatim: 'Demander au moniteur une parade si j'en eprouve le besoin' -> 'Parer un grimpeur quand c'est necessaire'.
How it runs
Protect a boulderer's fall by guiding the upper body and head toward the pads without catching them, requesting or giving a spot when needed - the FFME spotting competence. Low boulder over pads; a spotter behind and slightly to the side, arms up, thumbs in. Track the climber; if they fall, guide the hips/upper back so they land feet-first on the pad and the head is protected - do not try to catch the whole weight.
Coaching points
FFME (jaune->orange), verbatim: 'Demander au moniteur une parade si j'en éprouve le besoin' -> 'Parer un grimpeur quand c'est nécessaire'. Arms up, thumbs tucked, eyes on the climber. Guide the body, protect the head - don't catch. Check the mat is clear and no one is below.
Make it harder
Spot a dynamic move or a traverse; two spotters for a big span.
Make it easier
Spot only the first move from a low start; coach demonstrates.
Landing & mat safetyClimbing schematic, side view, vertical wall: the climber, the climber's path drawn, the crash pad.PROFILE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathlanding / fall zone (pad)

Landing & mat safety

Learn to fall and land safely on bouldering pads - feet first, bend the knees, roll back - and to keep the landing zone clear, the FFME bouldering safety rules.

u9u13u17sen low 10 min
Drill details
Set out
Thick pads under a low boulder; a clear zone with no bags, no other climbers below.
What it trains
Learn to fall and land safely on bouldering pads - feet first, bend the knees, roll back - and to keep the landing zone clear, the FFME bouldering safety rules.
Published frame
FFME (blanc bloc), verbatim: 'Verifier que la surface de reception n'est pas encombree' / 'Ne pas grimper au-dessus d'autres grimpeurs' / 'Ne pas courir sur les tapis'.
How it runs
Learn to fall and land safely on bouldering pads - feet first, bend the knees, roll back - and to keep the landing zone clear, the FFME bouldering safety rules. Thick pads under a low boulder; a clear zone with no bags, no other climbers below. From a low height, drop and land feet-first with bent knees, then roll back onto the pad; practise controlled falls before climbing higher.
Coaching points
FFME (blanc bloc), verbatim: 'Vérifier que la surface de réception n'est pas encombrée' / 'Ne pas grimper au-dessus d'autres grimpeurs' / 'Ne pas courir sur les tapis'. Feet first, bend the knees, roll back. Never land stiff-legged or on the hands. Check below before every climb.
Make it harder
Fall from a little higher; land and roll from a dynamic move.
Make it easier
Step down and land from the lowest holds only.
Progressive lead-fall practiceClimbing schematic, side view, overhanging wall: the climber and the belayer, the climber's path drawn, the rope or sight line.PROFILE · OVERHANG
the climberthe belayer / spotterbody / movement pathrope line / line of sight

Progressive lead-fall practice

Build from arresting a small lead fall to taking and catching a controlled dynamic fall high on a bolt, the FFME progression from 'jaune' to 'orange' - the belayer braking dynamically and safely.

u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
Overhanging or vertical lead wall with a clear fall line; a competent lead belayer; climber above a clipped bolt (never below the bolt).
What it trains
Build from arresting a small lead fall to taking and catching a controlled dynamic fall high on a bolt, the FFME progression from 'jaune' to 'orange' - the belayer braking dynamically and safely.
Published frame
FFME progression, verbatim: jaune 'Arreter une petite chute' -> orange 'Freiner et arreter une chute de facon dynamique'.
How it runs
Build from arresting a small lead fall to taking and catching a controlled dynamic fall high on a bolt, the FFME progression from 'jaune' to 'orange' - the belayer braking dynamically and safely. Overhanging or vertical lead wall with a clear fall line; a competent lead belayer; climber above a clipped bolt (never below the bolt). Start with tiny slips just above a bolt; progress to a controlled fall with the last clip at the feet; the belayer gives a soft, dynamic catch; the climber learns to accept flying in the movement.
Coaching points
FFME progression, verbatim: jaune 'Arrêter une petite chute' -> orange 'Freiner et arrêter une chute de façon dynamique'. FFME (orange), verbatim: 'Dépasser mon appréhension pour accepter de voler dans le mouvement'. Fall only above the bolt, never below it. Belayer: soft dynamic catch, brake hand always on. Clear the fall line; no slack snags.
Make it harder
Higher above the bolt; overhanging catches; alternate roles.
Make it easier
Take-and-hold on a tight rope first; a slip of a few centimetres.
Clipping techniqueClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: 2 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn, the rope or sight line.FACE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathrope line / line of sightfoothold

Clipping technique

Clip the quickdraw quickly and correctly from a stable stance, in sequence, without back-clipping or z-clipping - the lead rope-installation skill from FFME 'jaune'.

u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
Lead wall (or on top-rope for practice) with draws at reachable heights; ground practice first with a hanging draw.
What it trains
Clip the quickdraw quickly and correctly from a stable stance, in sequence, without back-clipping or z-clipping - the lead rope-installation skill from FFME 'jaune'.
Published frame
Clip from a stable stance, not mid-move.
How it runs
Clip the quickdraw quickly and correctly from a stable stance, in sequence, without back-clipping or z-clipping - the lead rope-installation skill from FFME 'jaune'. Lead wall (or on top-rope for practice) with draws at reachable heights; ground practice first with a hanging draw. From a stable stance, pinch the rope, clip in one smooth motion with the gate facing away from the direction of travel; check the rope runs from back to front; move on.
Coaching points
Clip from a stable stance, not mid-move. Gate faces away from your direction of travel (no back-clip). Rope runs back-to-front through the carabiner. Clip in sequence; out-of-sequence clipping loses the '+' in competition (World Climbing).
Make it harder
Clip on lead from harder stances; clip quickly under mild pump.
Make it easier
Ground drills with a fixed draw; clip on top-rope.
Rope management on leadClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: 1 holds and footholds, the climber, the rope or sight line.!FACE · VERTICAL
the climberrope line / line of sightfoothold

Rope management on lead

Keep the rope running cleanly - correct clip order, no rope behind the leg, no z-clip - so a fall is safe and the '+' is never lost to a sequence error.

u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
A lead route with several draws and one or two rope-trap positions (a hold where the leg can get behind the rope).
What it trains
Keep the rope running cleanly - correct clip order, no rope behind the leg, no z-clip - so a fall is safe and the '+' is never lost to a sequence error.
Published frame
! = rope-trap foothold (leg behind the rope).
How it runs
Keep the rope running cleanly - correct clip order, no rope behind the leg, no z-clip - so a fall is safe and the '+' is never lost to a sequence error. A lead route with several draws and one or two rope-trap positions (a hold where the leg can get behind the rope). Climb aware of where the rope is relative to the legs; keep it in front; if it slips behind the leg, correct before moving up; avoid z-clipping by always taking rope from below the last draw.
Coaching points
Rope in front of the leg, always. A rope behind the leg can flip you upside down in a fall. Take rope from below the last clip to avoid z-clipping. Correct a rope error before you commit to the next move.
Make it harder
Steeper terrain with traversing draws; manage rope drag with alternating draws.
Make it easier
Walk through the trap positions on top-rope first.
Boulder in all directionsClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: the climber, the climber's path drawn, the crash pad.FACE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathlanding / fall zone (pad)

Boulder in all directions

Move up, sideways and down on boulder holds to build varied movement and body awareness, using volumes and different hold types, from the FFME 'blanc/orange' bouldering modules.

u9u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
A low bouldering panel with holds and volumes; pads clear.
What it trains
Move up, sideways and down on boulder holds to build varied movement and body awareness, using volumes and different hold types, from the FFME 'blanc/orange' bouldering modules.
Published frame
Down-climbing builds control as much as up.
How it runs
Move up, sideways and down on boulder holds to build varied movement and body awareness, using volumes and different hold types, from the FFME 'blanc/orange' bouldering modules. A low bouldering panel with holds and volumes; pads clear. Traverse left and right, climb up and reverse back down, use big holds then small; explore how the body must reposition for each direction.
Coaching points
Down-climbing builds control as much as up. Change the body position for each direction. Use volumes to practise balance and pressing. Stay low; land safely on the pad.
Make it harder
Harder holds; add a rule (feet-only marked, hands-only marked).
Make it easier
Jugs only, traverse near the ground.
Limited attemptsClimbing schematic, face view, overhanging wall: 4 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn, the crash pad.12ZTFACE · OVERHANG
the climberbody / movement pathhand holdlanding / fall zone (pad)

Limited attempts

Solve a boulder in a fixed number of attempts, rehearsing the current competition points model where every failed attempt costs 0.1 and attempts break ties.

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
An on-sight boulder near the climber's limit; a rule of e.g. 3 attempts; a bonus for reaching the zone hold.
What it trains
Solve a boulder in a fixed number of attempts, rehearsing the current competition points model where every failed attempt costs 0.1 and attempts break ties.
Published frame
Z = zone, T = top. World Climbing points model per source.
How it runs
Solve a boulder in a fixed number of attempts, rehearsing the current competition points model where every failed attempt costs 0.1 and attempts break ties. An on-sight boulder near the climber's limit; a rule of e.g. 3 attempts; a bonus for reaching the zone hold. Read from the ground, then attack; bank the zone first, then convert the top in the fewest goes. Track top?/zone?/attempts as a competition would.
Coaching points
Under the current model: Zone = 10, Top = 25, each attempt costs 0.1 (World Climbing). Bank the zone before going for the top. Every extra attempt is a tie-break loss. Read well so the first attempt counts.
Make it harder
Flash-only (one attempt); a 4-boulder mock round with a 5-minute clock.
Make it easier
More attempts allowed; easier boulder.
Hover handClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: 2 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn.1 sFACE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathhand hold

Hover hand

Reach for the next hold and hover the hand over it for a beat before gripping, training precise contact and control (a slap is not control) rather than snatching.

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
A boulder or route within level; holds that reward a precise catch.
What it trains
Reach for the next hold and hover the hand over it for a beat before gripping, training precise contact and control (a slap is not control) rather than snatching.
Published frame
Hover, aim, then place - don't snatch.
How it runs
Reach for the next hold and hover the hand over it for a beat before gripping, training precise contact and control (a slap is not control) rather than snatching. A boulder or route within level; holds that reward a precise catch. Move to each hold, pause with the hand hovering just over it for one second, then place it exactly on the best part and weight it with control.
Coaching points
Hover, aim, then place - don't snatch. Find the best part of the hold before gripping. Control the contact; a slap is not control. Builds precision and calm on hard moves.
Make it harder
Hover on small holds; hover after a dynamic move.
Make it easier
Big holds; hover for a shorter time.
Volumes & balanceClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: 3 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn, the crash pad.FACE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathvolumelanding / fall zone (pad)

Volumes & balance

Climb on large volumes with few or no holds, pressing and balancing on the features themselves, developing the balance and coordination FFME 'orange' bouldering targets.

u9u13u17 medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
A panel with big volumes; pads clear; hands allowed only on volumes for part of the drill.
What it trains
Climb on large volumes with few or no holds, pressing and balancing on the features themselves, developing the balance and coordination FFME 'orange' bouldering targets.
Published frame
Press with open hands - no crimping (protects young fingers).
How it runs
Climb on large volumes with few or no holds, pressing and balancing on the features themselves, developing the balance and coordination FFME 'orange' bouldering targets. A panel with big volumes; pads clear; hands allowed only on volumes for part of the drill. Use friction and balance on the volumes; press with open hands, keep the hips over the feet, move smoothly between features.
Coaching points
Press with open hands - no crimping (protects young fingers). Trust friction and body position. Hips over the feet on the slopey features. Smooth, balanced movement over power.
Make it harder
Fewer holds; steeper volumes; a coordination sequence across features.
Make it easier
Allow holds between volumes; keep it low.
Introduction to speedClimbing schematic, side view, vertical wall: the climber and the belayer, the climber's path drawn, the rope or sight line.PROFILE · VERTICAL
the climberthe belayer / spotterbody / movement pathrope line / line of sight

Introduction to speed

Climb an easy top-rope route dynamically and fluidly, progressively faster - the only federation-published speed content (FFME 'orange').

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
An easy, well-known top-rope route on big holds; an assisted-braking belay; a clear rope path.
What it trains
Climb an easy top-rope route dynamically and fluidly, progressively faster - the only federation-published speed content (FFME 'orange'). Note: no drillable exercise exists for the standard 15 m competition route.
Published frame
Easy top-rope, not the IFSC speed wall.
How it runs
Climb an easy top-rope route dynamically and fluidly, progressively faster - the only federation-published speed content (FFME 'orange'). Note: no drillable exercise exists for the standard 15 m competition route. An easy, well-known top-rope route on big holds; an assisted-braking belay; a clear rope path. Climb the familiar route smoothly, then repeat progressively faster while staying fluid and in control; the belayer keeps pace with the rope.
Coaching points
FFME (orange), verbatim intent: grimper 'de manière dynamique et fluide, de plus en plus vite'. Fluid first, fast second - control never drops. Belayer must keep the rope moving with the climber (assisted-braking device). Only on an easy, known route on top-rope.
Make it harder
Faster on the same route; introduce a reaction start on the ground (never below 0.100 s in competition).
Make it easier
Climb at normal pace; focus on fluidity only.
Decorative strip: a fine outline of a climbing wall in profile (the wall, three holds, a dashed rope line, the floor and a pad); this drill has no diagram.

Managing fear of falling

Progressively face the fear of falling and the exposure of lead climbing, learning to commit to the movement rather than freeze - the FFME 'orange' mental competence.

u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
How it runs
Progressively face the fear of falling and the exposure of lead climbing, learning to commit to the movement rather than freeze - the FFME 'orange' mental competence. A safe lead wall with a trusted belayer; a route within physical level so the challenge is mental; a clear fall zone. Climb to a comfortable clip, take a small controlled fall, breathe, then climb a little higher before the next fall; build the exposure gradually with calm breathing and a set routine.
Coaching points
FFME (orange), verbatim: 'Dépasser mon appréhension pour accepter de voler dans le mouvement'. Breathe and slow down when fear rises. Trust the belayer and the system (checked beforehand). Small steps: each fall a little higher than the last.
Make it harder
Falls higher above the bolt; onsight a route with commitment.
Make it easier
Take-and-hold on a tight rope; stay near the last clip.
The quiet-feet gameClimbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: 6 holds and footholds, the climber, the climber's path drawn, the crash pad.FACE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathhand holdfootholdlanding / fall zone (pad)

The quiet-feet game

A playful youth version of silent feet: children climb a low traverse trying to make no noise, turning footwork precision into a game.

u9u13 medium 15 min
Drill details
Set out
A very low traverse or boulder near the ground on big holds; pads under the traverse; the group listens and counts noises.
What it trains
Turn footwork precision into a game: children climb a very low traverse on big holds trying to make no foot noise, and the group listens.
Published frame
Keep it low and on the pads.
How it runs
A playful youth version of silent feet: children climb a low traverse trying to make no noise, turning footwork precision into a game. A very low traverse or boulder near the ground on big holds; the group listens and counts noises. Each child climbs a set section; the group counts any foot noise; fewest noises wins. Keep it light and encouraging.
Coaching points
Look at the foot, place it softly. Quiet feet mean careful, strong climbing. Cheer for good placements, not just tops. Keep it low and safe on the pads.
Make it harder
Smaller footholds; add a simple hand rule.
Make it easier
Biggest holds; shorter section.
Movement course (young children)Climbing schematic, face view, vertical wall: the climber, the climber's path drawn, the crash pad.FACE · VERTICAL
the climberbody / movement pathlanding / fall zone (pad)

Movement course (young children)

A guided low course for young children: traverse, step through hoops, reach targets - building coordination, confidence and body awareness before any performance climbing.

u9 low 10 min
Drill details
Set out
A low traverse wall with big holds; simple props (targets to touch, coloured holds to find); thick pads.
What it trains
A guided low course for young children: traverse, step through hoops, reach targets - building coordination, confidence and body awareness before any performance climbing.
Published frame
Keep everyone low and over the pads.
How it runs
A guided low course for young children: traverse, step through hoops, reach targets - building coordination, confidence and body awareness before any performance climbing. A low traverse wall with big holds; simple props (targets to touch, coloured holds to find); thick pads. Children follow the course: traverse to a target, touch a coloured hold, come back down safely; the coach guides and encourages, keeping everyone low.
Coaching points
Keep everyone low and over the pads. Praise effort and coordination, not grades. Big holds, open hands - never load small holds. Make it fun; confidence comes first at this age.
Make it harder
Add a simple climb-up to a low target; a following-the-leader traverse.
Make it easier
Just traverse along big holds with the coach's hand nearby.
Decorative strip: a fine outline of a climbing wall in profile (the wall, three holds, a dashed rope line, the floor and a pad); this drill has no diagram.

Core & antagonist conditioning

Body-weight core (gainage) plus antagonist work (pushing, external rotation, wrist extensors) to balance the pulling-dominant load; whether it lowers injuries in climbers has not been tested.

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
How it runs
Body-weight core (gainage) plus antagonist work (pushing, external rotation, wrist extensors) to balance the pulling-dominant load; whether it lowers injuries in climbers has not been tested. Mat space; optional light band and press-up positions; no finger loading involved. Perform front and side planks, dead-bugs, press-ups, band external rotations and wrist-extensor work in short sets; keep form strict and pain-free.
Coaching points
Antagonist work balances all the pulling climbing does. Strict form; stop if any joint hurts. No finger loading here - this is push/core/rotation. Consistency matters more than heavy load (evidence not quantified).
Make it harder
Longer planks; single-arm press-ups; heavier band.
Make it easier
Knee planks; incline press-ups; no band.
Decorative strip: a fine outline of a climbing wall in profile (the wall, three holds, a dashed rope line, the floor and a pad); this drill has no diagram.

Continuity / ARC endurance

Long, easy, continuous climbing (aerobic capacity and recovery, 'ARC') to build the pulling endurance that limits lead climbing, staying well below the pump threshold.

u13u17sen medium 15 min
Drill details
How it runs
Long, easy, continuous climbing (aerobic capacity and recovery, 'ARC') to build the pulling endurance that limits lead climbing, staying well below the pump threshold. Prescriptions not quantified. An easy top-rope route or a low traverse that can be climbed continuously for several minutes without stopping. Climb continuously at an easy pace for a set time, keeping the forearms just below pump; rest fully, then repeat; focus on relaxed grip and efficient movement.
Coaching points
Stay easy - just below the pump, never to failure. Relax the grip; use the feet and straight arms. Builds the endurance base for lead (evidence not quantified). Full recovery between sets.
Make it harder
Longer sets; slightly steeper easy terrain.
Make it easier
Shorter sets; easier, lower-angle climbing.
Decorative strip: a fine outline of a climbing wall in profile (the wall, three holds, a dashed rope line, the floor and a pad); this drill has no diagram.

Contact strength (adults 18+ only)

Explosive finger/pulling contact-strength work (limit bouldering, and campus-style loading for experienced adults) - STRICTLY 18+: the BMC, with the UIAA Medical Commission, advises against campus-board training under 18; the rest of the youth rule (maximal finger loading) is Paak's own caution.

sen high 15 min
Drill details
How it runs
Explosive finger/pulling contact-strength work (limit bouldering, and campus-style loading for experienced adults) - STRICTLY 18+: the BMC, with the UIAA Medical Commission, advises against campus-board training under 18; the rest of the youth rule (maximal finger loading) is Paak's own caution. For 18+ only, with a full warm-up: a steep boulder at limit and/or a campus board; thick pads; open-hand emphasis; stop at the first sign of finger pain. After a thorough warm-up, perform short, maximal, well-rested efforts (limit boulder moves; controlled campus ladders for experienced adults); prioritise open-hand grips; never train fingers to failure or through pain.
Coaching points
STRICTLY 18+: the BMC, with the UIAA Medical Commission, advises against campus-board training under 18; maximal finger loading is Paak's own caution. Finger growth-plate fractures cluster at 13-15 years. Warm up fully before any maximal finger load. Open-hand emphasis; stop at the first finger pain. Long rests; quality over quantity; never to failure.
Make it harder
Harder limit moves; longer campus reaches (experienced adults only, pain-free).
Make it easier
Limit boulder on bigger holds; drop the campus board entirely.

The guides

Disciplines, grades and competition formats Bouldering, lead and speed are scored in three different ways. The current bouldering scoring, the “+” in lead, the speed wall, and the grade scales that must never be mixed. Age categories, passports and coaching ladders The categories of the FFME and World Climbing, the white, yellow and orange passport ladder, the DAV Kletterschein, and the coaching routes of each country. Belaying, kit and the partner check The partner check before every route and the lowering of the climber, word for word in the FFME and DAV texts, the club's kit, and what the texts we read do not say about the self-belay device. Bouldering: pads, landing and spotting The three bouldering rules written by the FFME, spotting taught from the yellow passport, and the maximum height of youth boulders by category. Technique: footwork, movement and route reading The order the passports teach: feet first, then movement, holds, route reading, progressive falling. The holds to give young climbers. Building a climbing session Three modes (top rope, lead, bouldering), nine themes and four age bands: how to choose drills from the library, and the ones not to offer young climbers. Competition tactics: bouldering, lead, speed What the current scoring changes in bouldering, observation and the “+” in lead, the false start in speed, and what a coach notes during competition. Fingers, growth and physical preparation Growth-plate fractures of the fingers between 13 and 15, the no-campus rule before 18, adult injuries, and the honest statement: no prevention programme is established.
Paak for a climbing club

Paak runs club life: members and households, online dues, attendance, communication, and club equipment with a retirement date on safety gear, with reminders to the staff team. The session planner also lives inside the app, on the session itself: pick the age band, the duration and the theme, and Paak builds a five-block minuted outline from this same library of 30 drills (warm-up, two mains, a game and a cool-down). Edit it, save it to the session: that is free. Printing the session sheet is in Paak One. Paak lives alongside the FFME, which stays your reference for licences, competitions and coaching diplomas. Free up to 100 members.

Create a club account See Paak for a climbing club
In Paak

These drills are in Paak

The generator is right on the session: plan by the players’ age band and the duration, pick a theme. Paak builds a minuted five-block outline (warm-up, two work blocks, a game and a cool-down) from this same library of 30 drills.

Planning, editing and saving the session is free.

Create my club What can Paak do for my club?

You coach, but you don’t run the club? Send this guide to your president